Make your own shampoo

 

Because I know that some of you out there like to to dabble in experimentation, I am posting these videos just for you. I haven't tried them yet, so please let me know what you think. I personally think I will be trying the No-Poo version first, once my current cleanser runs out.

This second video is a bit more advanced, but looks like it yields a very nice low-poo kind of shampoo. You could use Dr. Bonner's Castile liquid soap as your base instead of making this one and then doctor it up with the ingredients you need for you hair.

Happy soaping! :)

Coarse haired curlies and dry climates

So I have been on vacation for a couple of weeks in Utah, and I found out very quickly that my coarse hair did NOT like the dry environment.

In case you don't remember from my previous article on the differences between fine and coarse hair, coarse hairs are lacking in the moisture department but doing great when it comes to protein. So the dry desert weather in Utah has been doing nothing to help my moisture challenged hair.

In comes Deva curl's new product, Set up and Above, to the rescue. Sort of like a pomade, with all it's oily, moistury, goodness, it added back just the right amount of oomph to my parched locks (as depicted by the pictures below).

I would definitely recommended this product to any of my coarse haired curly clients living in dry weather conditions.

Update: 7/5/12
I am back home and once again in the humid Texas weather and I am still loving this product! I use much less, but I love the definition it brings to my curls even here.

Deva curls B'leave-in and Aquage Defining Gel

Since the last product article I did was for coarse hair, I thought today I would do one for fine hair. You know...to level out the playing field.;) I have been using Aquage defining gel in the salon, on my fine haired clients, for a couple years now. While it's not been the right fit for everyone, it has been a big favorite with a majority of these clients (as they keep coming back time and time again to replenish their supply). I personally like the way the clients hair looks so much more defined and holds its shape well. I have more recently begun cocktailing Deva Curl's B'leave-in with the Aquage defining gel. Why? Because B'leave-in has protein in it, which fine hair needs, and I wanted to try it out, but I was not ready to commit to using it by itself. My observation has been that it does seem to give the hair a more bounce. These two products do not need to be cocktailed to be effective. Although I have not used B'leave-in by itself yet, I am confident it would do well on it's own. And of course I know, from years of experience, that Aquage defining gel does well on it's own too. So mix them or by them separately, but don't pass them up all together cause you might just be missing out on the product that will be just right for you.

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Silicone or Not? What’s in a Name?

The link below will lead you to an article I recently read, at naturallycurly.com, about silicones. I found it to be extremely helpful in understanding the nature of silicones and why some are okay while others are not. I hope you find it to be as enlightening.

Silicone or Not? What’s in a Name?

Using Suave conditioner to Co-wash

Are you co-washing? Have you tried using suave or VO5 conditioners to co-wash with? Not all of the conditioners made by these two labels are suitable (because they have silicones) but their are some that are perfect for the job. My two favorites are Suave Green Apple and Suave Cherry Blossom. Using these conditioners are a very cost effective way the co-wash without having to break the bank. Just substitute the one of these conditioners for your shampoo and save the more expensive conditioners to actually condition with. I think you'll be happy with the results. ** Warning, do not undertake co-washing if you haven't first been taught how to properly do it.**

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Homemade flaxseed gel

Made my own flaxseed hair gel and I love it! My curls are bouncier and better defined.
To be honest I've had the flaxseeds sitting in my pantry for the past year. I've been procrastinating making it because I thought it would be harder and a lot more messy. It wasn't either. It was pretty simple and took hardly no time at all to make. The great thing about it is that once you understand how to make the basic recipe you can easily customize it to your hair needs(ie. no humectants and oils for those with fine hair, or no protiens for those with coarse hair) adding other ingredients to make it unique to you. Cool huh?
Since I know you're going to want it, here's the recipe.

Basic flaxseed hair gel recipe:
Ingredients:
1/4 cup flaxseed
2 cups water

Tools you'll need:
Medium sized pot
Wire mesh strainer
Bowl
Squirt bottle with pour spout

Directions:
Pour flaxseed and water into a medium size pot. Place on stove and set heat to medium-high. Bring to a boil and then allow to boil for about 5 minutes; stir often. Pay close attention during this time because you don't want it to overflow, adjust heat as neccasary. After 5 minutes turn heat down to low. Continue stirring until mixture thickens and makes a long slimey trail from the tip of the spoon down to the mixture, when you lift the spoon out of the mixture. It should be the consistency of egg whites.
When the gel is at the right consistency, turn of the stove and pour the liquid through the wire strainer into the bowl. You want to try to remove all the seeds, cause nobody wants seeds in their hair. :) Once gel has cooled slightly pour it into a squirt bottle with the help of a funnel. Allow to finish cooling and then put it in the fridge. It should stay good for up to two weeks in the fridge. You'll know when it's time to make more cause it will smell funny or it's all gone :)
Enjoy and let me know what you think.

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Comb vs. Brush Part 2

In my last article, regarding this subject, I gave an overview of a few different types of combs. I also explained why, I believe, certain combs work better for certain hair densities. In this article I am going to cover brushes. Two specifically, one I recommend using and one I recommend staying away from. Hopefully, by the end of reading both articles you will have a better idea of what you will want to use for your hair care needs, whether it be comb or brush.

The first brush on the list is a Boars head bristle brush (say that 10 times fast), which derived its name from the animal it came hailed from, the boar.

 

Pros:

1. Made out of  natural boar’s hair fibers
2. Soft bristles are attributed with being  useful in moving natural oils down the length of the hair
3. Much more gentle on the hair than their synthetic counterparts.
4. Efficient at smoothing fly-aways

 

Cons:

1. Bristles are densely packed together
2. Does not easily remove tangles
3. Can cause undo stress and damage to the hair strand resulting in breakage.
4. Should not be used on wet hair
5. Causes frizzing and/or  relaxing /straightening of curls

This brush does wonders when it comes to straightening the hair, or when you want a smooth looking style (i.e. a ponytail), but when it come to curls it just doesn’t make the cut. The densely packed bristles do an awesome job of moving natural oils down the hair strand, but when you want your curls to look their best the closeness of the bristles tug away at your beautiful curls leaving them frizzy and awkward looking. Using a boar’s head bristle brush on wet hair is a definite no, no, because that is when the hair is most fragile and you are likely to end up with a lot of split ends. Using it on wet hair also adds a lot of extra bulk and volume to the hair that most  people do not like. In the end, this brush is wonderful for straightening only.

 

The second on the list is a plastic vent brush. This brush must be entirely synthetic and have little plastic balls covering the end of each bristle.

 

Pros:

1. Vents allow for faster drying time when straightening the hair.
2. Fewer bristles
3. Generously spaced bristles
4. Easily detangles dry or wet hair
5. Versatile in use
6. Turned edges aid in “curling” or bending the hair into desired style
7. Fair amount of control when styling

 

Cons:

1. Generously spaced bristles

To be honest, this is my most favoritist tool out of  the whole lot. While yes, it does have many advantages that can be utilized during the straightening process, none of those advantages become disadvantages when using it solely for curly hair. It is comfortable to use, works (in my opinion) as well as a pik in detangling hair, shower friendly (i.e. doesn’t get ruined in the shower), can be used if you want to “straighten” your hair, etc… I really do love this tool! To temper myself a little, I will concede that this may not be the best choice for those curlies with fine to medium fine hair, for the same reasons given with the pik. At the end of the day, if I had to choose just one tool to use, I would pick the vent brush every time. The versatility of this tool, for me, makes it irreplaceable.

I hope that after reading both articles you will me able to make the best choice for your hair and your lifestyle.  What your final preference will be may be different than mine, but that is ok, so long as you are happy with your results.  I should let know now that I only recommend using a comb or a brush to detangle your hair right before your get in the shower. I use my fingers for pretty much everything else. In the end you could decide to just skip the whole comb and brush routine and use what God gave you, your fingers! But whatever you decide make sure it’s what’s right for you.

Product Review: DivaCurl Travel Pack

For about a month and a half  or so I have been trying out the  products found in the DivaCurl Travel Pack*. The pack includes 3oz. size bottles of: No-Poo, The One Conditioner, Angell, and Set It Free.

  Warning!: These products are NOT recommended for those with fine to medium-fine textured hair. They contain no proteins and a fair amount of humectants.  If you have medium/normal textured hair  and choose to use these products but find that your hair is a bit frizzy try adding  some protein into your hair care regime.  That said, these products are perfect for those with medium-course to course textured hair.

During the trial I used all of the products together. I wanted to try to keep my test results as accurate as possible. I normally wash my hair every other day, MWF, so that is what I continued to do.  When dispensing the product into my palm I used no more than a half dollar size of the product, sometimes less, per application. The results of how long the product will last will vary depending on your length of hair and amount of hair. My hair comes to halfway below my shoulders and my bra strap and it is also fairly thick.

I started by cleansing my scalp with No-Poo, using  only one application. I applied the product into my palm and then rubbed my hands together to emulsify it. Then I raked the product from my palms to my finger tips, using,well, my finger tips. I then rubbed the product into my scalp vigorously, using my fingertips, for about 2-3 min. Once I had thoroughly cleansed my scalp, I ran what little product was left on my hands down the length of my hair from scalp to ends.  I let the No-Poo sit on my head while I attended to the rest of my shower duties. When I was done with the rest of my shower I thoroughly rinsed out my hair and turned off the shower. After carefully squeezing (not ringing) out the excess water from my hair, I applied the One conditioner to the palms of my hands and emulsified the product in my palms. I glided my hands over my hair pretending like I was putting in a pony tail, but continued running my hands over the the length of my hair from scalp to ends. Then I ran my fingers back up through my hair  from the ends to scalp, but not on the scalp, to help distribute the product more evenly (I only needed one application).  As soon as I felt that the product had been evenly distributed, I proceeded to apply Angell. Flipping my head over I applied 1 and 1/2 separate applications of  the product to my hair by running my fingers through the length of my hair beginning at the ends and working my way up towards the scalp (of course I again emulsified the product in my palms first). Next, I sprayed several pumps of Set It Free into my hair, on both the under side and top side (my head was still flipped over).  Then I firmly scrunched the product into my hair and followed with my normal hair plopping routine.

Of course I forgot to take any pictures of my hair during this time, but my curls were evenly formed and not frizzy. Second day hair was easy to wet and restyle, scrunching a pump or two of my Fruit of the Earth Aloe Vera Gel  into my damp hair to ensure a frizz free day. My hair, which was already in good condition, remained soft and manageable. Overall, I give this product a  4 out of 5, mainly because a 5 would be my holy grail of products and also because they are rather costly. Please, let me know if you have used any of these products and what your results have been.

*I was given this kit to test by my local RDA distributor. A perk of being a cosmetologist.  I did not receive any payment, however for my review.

Comb vs. Brush Part 1

I have had several inquiries about my choice of using a vent brush. It got me thinking that maybe there are more of you out there similarly wondering about it as well and so I thought I would share my thoughts on the subject of comb vs. brush with everyone.

To begin, I would like to quickly overview the function of  combs and brushes. The purpose of any comb or brush is to help you;

1. Have control when styling
2. Help in the process of removing tangles and loose hairs
3. Aid in the distribution of product and/or natural oils throughout your hair.

Looking at the comb first, we find the pros and cons of the comb vary depending on what type of comb you choose to use. Combs like brushes span the gamete and, because of that, I believe that some should not be used on your curly hair. For the purposes of this article I will refer to 3 different types of combs. First is the handy dandy hair dressing comb/cutting comb.

Pros

1. The tightly packed teeth of this comb makes it excellent at grabbing,  gathering, and controlling hair.
2. Helps to make a nice smooth surface needed for cutting, making ponytails, braiding, etc. 
3. Aides well in back combing to provide lift at the root of the hair*
4. Can help pull out dirt and debris from hair

Cons

1. The tightly packed teeth can pull on curly hair and cause excessive pulling, discomfort and even breakage.

 

Some of the same reasons that this comb is a stylists best friend are the same reasons that you would want to steer clear of it in your own personal use, if your hair density ranges anywhere from a medium amount to thick and plentiful. Of course,  if you want a nice tight ponytail or braid (everything has a time and a place right?) this comb would make an excellent choice.  As a side note; if you have less than a medium amount of hair you may not run into any problems using this comb due to the mere fact that your hairs are not as densely packed.

The second comb is called a wide tooth comb or a vent comb.

Pros:

1. Multi purpose
2. One half of  the comb has wider teeth to better aid in picking out tangles from wet hair.
3. Opposite side of the comb is used for added control of hair when styling or cutting.

Cons:

1. Hairs could be pulled and or broken if care isn’t taken to keep them out of the tightly packed section of the comb.

This comb would be the perfect choice for someone looking to save some money. The wider teeth make it a good choice for those with a medium amount of hair that want to use it’s multi-purpose styling control benefits. However this is not the best choice for those with thick hair because the teeth on the wide end may still be too close and cause excessive pulling and damage. For those with thin hair this comb may be over kill, because the teeth on the wide end may be spaced too far apart to make it useful in accomplishing the job it is needed to do. Thus, making it a waste of your money.

Comb number three is a most commonly called a pik. There are many different versions of this comb but this picture provides an image of what is most commonly found and used.  

Pros:

1. Excellent at detangling hair
2. Few teeth that are widely spread apart
3. Nice big handle

Cons:

1. Widely spaced teeth
2. Gives little to no control when styling in ponytails or braids
3. Designed for only one purpose

Best choice for those who have medium to thick hair. The wide spacing of teeth make detangling a breeze. There are so many varieties that you can easily find one that is ergonomically correct in the handle area (which basically means it is comfortable to hold and put less stress on your body). While it will separate the hairs of those with fine to medium fine amounts of hair, it will not be as effective at removing loose hairs that can contribute to tangling (of course, that may not be as big of an issue for you as for those with thicker hair).

While I am aware that there are still more choices of combs available to the average consumer hopefully my review of these 3 different types will make it easier for you to pick the best one for your needs. Don't go rush off to the store yet though, because in my next article we will be discussing different types of brushes and you might decide you’d rather use a brush than a comb. 'Til next time…:).

*I try to stay clear of this practice unless I am doing an updo for a very special occasion. It causes too much damage and breakage to be used on a regular basis.

 

To protein or not to protein...

Previously, in my list of Do's and Don'ts I talked about what kind of ingredients to look for in a shampoo, conditioner, or gel. I have learned since writing that article that it is necessary to be somewhat more discriminating when picking out the right products for your hair. It is not enough to just simply find the right ingredients, but to know which ones work best for your hair texture.
   How do you find out your hair texture? Easy. Separate a single strand of hair from the rest and run your forefinger and thumb over the length of it from scalp to ends. If, when you run your fingers over the strand of hair and you feel hardly anything or nothing at all, you have fine textured hair; if your hair feels like a strand of quilting thread then you have coarse textured hair; if your hair feels like it is somewhere in between, you have "normal" textured hair. Be warned, it is possible to have two different textures coexisting on the same head of hair. For example I have both normal and coarse hair mixed throughout my hair.
   What does it mean? Well, it tells you more adequately what the composition of your hair is. Those with coarse hair produces an abundance of protein but lack an equal amount of moisture giving it the characteristic wiry, thick texture. On the other hand, those with fine hair are blessed with a healthy helping of moisture but have a scant amount of protein which gives the strand a light and thin feeling. Normal hair has a balanced amount of moisture and protein allowing it to be more versatile than the other two textures.
   Why does your hair texture effect what ingredients you should look for? To put it plainly, you want your hair to be balanced. When you naturally have too much protein in your hair you don't want to add more because it throws off the balance even more, vice versa for overly moisturized hair.
    In conclusion, those with fine hair should look for products that contain proteins and stay away from moisturizing ingredients such as oils. Coarse textured individuals should steer clear of any kind of protein* in their hair care diet, while adding a healthy dose of moisturizing ingredients. Both protein and moisturizing ingredients are tolerated well by those with "normal" texture, so these curly heads can be a little less picky when looking for their products. This statement should be tempered by the reality that even these individuals can find that they have a sensitivity to either protein or moisture.
    Unfortunately, what this all means is that reading labels will seem to others to be your new favorite past time. :) However, I promise you that the extra effort will be well worth your time. Happy hunting.....I mean shopping.;)

*The only exceptions to this is immediately following a chemical service.

Co-washing part 1

Co-washing is one method of cleansing and moisturizing successfully used  by curly girls. In this method conditioner is substituted for shampoo when cleansing the scalp. Although strange in its concept, it is possible to achieve cleanliness with this method. Reasons for using this method range from a desire to completely avoid any shampoos; to mere curiosity. While I do not currently use this method, I have in the past, and can speak from first hand experience of its effectiveness. Why did I stop? Mainly, because I wanted to try something new (when I find a new method or product that interests me, I  try it.)
You  must purchase  conditioners that contain absolutely no silicone or any silicone derivatives. Silicones are not water soluble and WILL build up on your hair shaft. Over time the silicone begins to weigh down the hair, and makes it feel “a kind of funky” that you never want to experience. Silicones coat the hair shaft in such a way that lets no moisture in or out. This is bad because, once the hair has used up what ever moisture was trapped in, no new moisture can gain access. No moisture = dry brittle hair (remember the silicones are building up on the hair with each co-wash). As explained in the article Do’s and Don’ts, the only way to fully remove them from the hair is with a sulfate based shampoo.
Once you have picked out the proper conditioner you can begin to put this method to the test.  I will share with you, in co-washing part 2, the method of application I found to have the most favorable results.

No-pooing

“Huh? What on Earth is she talking about?” (I know that’s what you’re thinking.) If you read CG, then you’ll understand what I am referring to. If not, no, I am not talking about bodily functions. I am talking about ridding certain kinds of shampoos from your hair care diet. Poo, for our purposes, is classified as any shampoo, whatsoever, that contains sulfates. Stay Away From Poo At All Costs! :) (LOL….) Now seriously, you want to stay away from sulfates because they strip away needed oils from your scalp. These oils help provide moisture to the hair and combine with sweat to create the acid mantle. Overly disturbing the acid mantle is bad because it’s what helps to protect your scalp from the elements and harmful bacteria and fungi. (Protection is a good thing. We like that.) You can however, use shampoos made with very mild, gentle cleansing agents. These do not strip away all of the necessary oils, leaving the acid mantle better intact. Cocamidopropl Betaine,Coca Betaine, Disodium Cocamphodiacetate, and Sodium Cocogl Isethionate name a few of these milder cleansing agents. Beware, these milder cleansing agents don’t lather up as well as the sulfates do. This can be rather disturbing to some people who are hooked on bubbles. Don’t fret, your hair will be clean, although, there may be an adjustment period. (Give it a good month before you chuck the idea out the window.) Another concern that has been made is that you do not achieve the same squeaky clean feeling that you once experienced. My only retort to that, is, squeaky clean hair isn’t all it’s cracked up to be. Squeaky clean, is an indication that you have stripped off too much of the acid mantle. The long and short of it is, stay away from poo, and don’t over do it with the milder shampoos. Start to do this and you will be well on your way to a poo free life.

Do’s and Don’ts

Bottom line in this article you learn what to run way from screaming and what to embrace with open arms. Overlooking any one of these can bring on a bad hair day like a twister in a trailer park, and nobody likes that. I am going to start with the don'ts, because I always like to get my bad news first.


Don't:

1. Use any sulfates of any kind (it's a lathering agent that strips hair and scalp of vital natural oils resulting in dry hair).

2. Use any dimethicone, silicone, or anything that contains ONE in it (masks the problem, dry moistureless hair, and does not allow any moisture into the hair; builds up in the hair unless washed out with....a SULFATE! yuck).
3. Even think about using your normal terri cloth bath towel on your hair (texture of towel roughs up the cuticle leaving hair frizzy and at times knotted)
4. Use bad alcohols on your hair i.e. SD alcohol, SD alcohol 40, Alcohol denat, Propanol, Propyl alcohol and Isopropyl alcohol (good alcohols are moisturizing, but these do the exact opposite; use them, and you’ll end up with dry brittle hair.)
5. Brush your hair, with a boars head bristle brush or any brush that has bristles densely packed, while dry or wet (can cause excessive cuticle damage and breakage).
6. Touch your hair until it is completely dry, except when applying gel and scrunching (oils from your hands cause frizziness and too much movement while drying will cause hair to expand).
7. Straighten your hair with round brushes, flat irons, or hair dryers  (harsh, I know, but if you want your curls to emerge from hibernation you have to give them a loving home to come to).
Now that we have the don’ts out of the way, we can move on to what you CAN do! :)

Do:

1. Use shampoos that substitute sulfates with Decyl Polyglucose and Cocamidopropyl Betaine (if used correctly, cleanses the scalp without stripping hair of all its essential oils; derived from sugar and coconut; gentlest cleansing agents on the market).

2. Look for products containing protein (hair is made up of protein and in small doses it can help to strengthen hair from the inside out).
3. Look for products with good alcohols i.e. Lauryl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, Myristyl alcohol, Stearyl alcohol, Cetearyl alcohol and Behenyl alcohol (these alcohols add moisture and shine to the hair; they also help make conditioners their creamy consistency).
4. Use products that are rich in humectants i.e. panthenol, vegetable glycerin, sorbitol (helps keep hair moisturized by absorbing water and keeping it in).
5. Use a vent brush with plastic capped bristles or a wide tooth comb (helps to evenly distribute product; gentler to the hair resulting in less damage).
6. Find a soft, old, smooth t-shirt to dry and scrunch your hair; if you need to touch your hair while it’s wet, after applying product, use this (soft, smooth texture helps keep cuticle flat which makes hair shiny).
7. Look for and use gels that contain both PVP and PVP/VA, are colorless and have fewer ingredients (I’ve got nothing to add; just do it).
8. Use a bowl diffuser when drying your hair with a blow dryer and only dry 80% (bowl allows for less movement of hair if used properly, causing less frizzy big hair)

That’s all folks! I am sure I could go on and on; but really, these are the basic got-to-know rules. Remember though, rules can be broken; but first you must learn them and practice them before you start breaking them. How else would you know that a rule doesn’t work for you, unless you have first tried it?